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Moncler ends runway collections as Thom Browne & Giambattista Valli exit roles

By Vivian Hendriksz

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Business

London - Italian luxury label Moncler is set to halt its Gamme Bleu and Gamme Rouge runway collections following its Spring/Summer 2018 season, as the brand is set to head in a new creative direction.

This new vision does not include input from designers Thom Browne and Giambattista Valli, creative directors of its Gamme Bleu and Gamme Rouge labels, as Moncler announced on Monday it has ended its partnerships with the designers. Both Giambattista Valli and Thom Browne are said to 'entirely' agree with CEO Remo Ruffini that Moncler is set to 'naturally evolve and expand towards other horizons,' according to a company statement.

Moncler closes 'Gamme' lines as it heads in a new, creative direction

Moncler, who is set to announce a new strategy for its company over the next few weeks, added that both designers will now dedicate themselves to their own eponymous brands as their SS '18 Gamme lines, which were shown this June and October respectively, will be discontinued.

“It’s been a great run, and lots of fun for so many years. But, as we defined a new growth strategy for the Thom Browne brand, I have realised that my focus should be on my own business,” said Browne, who first began designing Gamme Bleu back in 2009. “The fact that this happened when Remo was starting to rethink Moncler’s future made our decision mutual and effortless. I wish to thank the teams who made things happen, together with Remo, who through the years has allowed me complete creative freedom.”

Moncler parts ways with Thom Browne & Giambattista Valli

“Conceiving the wardrobe of the Moncler woman and infusing it with the Valli DNA was a real challenge. It brought creations for every moment of her life, from a morning in Gstaad to an evening at the Met Gala in New York,” said Valli, who first partnered with Moncler in 2008. “I want therefore to thank Remo for his foresight in choosing me for this exciting project and his support throughout these ten years where I was able to build a team and bring to life unique collections under the Moncler Gamme Rouge label.”

Moncler's decision to move away from its runway collections signals a shift in brand's strategy as it aims to reconnect with younger consumers. The luxury outerwear label previously noted it was working on "important projects" for the brand after revealing a 15 percent increased in its 9 months sales last month. Signs of Moncler's new strategy can already be seen in the brand's new flagship store in Milan, Italy where products from different collections and lines are displayed together, rather than in separate departments.

“I feel really excited about Moncler’s future and the challenges that await us. I am all too aware that innovation, focus and dedication are vital for improving every brand and every company, so I feel honored to have had the chance to work alongside two such highly talented and sensitive designers as Giambattista Valli and Thom Browne," said Remo Ruffini, Chairman and CEO of Moncler in a statement. "Their professionalism, talent and energy have been the defining elements of all the work we have done together over the years."

"I have always admired Giambattista’s style; he managed to combine a timeless elegance, contemporary and modern approach when dressing today’s woman; while Thom’s talent for intuition and his inimitable sartorial touch, teamed with the sporting spirit of Moncler, have without a doubt yielded a distinctive, recognizable collection. I cannot thank Giambattista and Thom enough for having contributed towards the Brand’s growth with Moncler Gamme Rouge and Moncler Gamme Bleu."

Photos: Moncler Milan and Gamme Rouge SS '18

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GIAMBATTISTA VALLI
Moncler
Thom Browne